A cheerful coffee town

I left the streets of Delhi behind and headed to the picturesque town of Filandia, Colombia. The excitement of exploring a new continent was palpable as I boarded the flight from Indira Gandhi International Airport. The route, from Delhi to Bogotá via Paris, was long but full of anticipation. After a short stopover in the City of Lights, I flew over the Andes, with Bogotá welcoming me in the early hours of the morning.

Bogotá, Colombia’s vibrant capital, was a whirlwind of colors, sounds, and flavors. The energy of the city was infectious, but my final destination was the quiet town of Filandia, nestled in the heart of the Coffee Triangle. After a night of rest in Bogotá, I took a domestic flight to Pereira, followed by a scenic drive through rolling hills and lush coffee plantations to reach Filandia.

Often called the “Illuminated Hill of the Andes,” Filandia is a small town that feels like stepping back in time. As I wandered through the cobblestone streets, I was greeted by colorful colonial homes, each more charming than the last. The town square, with its lively atmosphere and friendly locals, made me feel right at home.

Coffee culture and hospitality

Colombia is known for its coffee, and Filandia is no exception. My first stop was a traditional coffee farm, where I met Don Francisco, a third-generation coffee farmer. His enthusiasm for his craft was evident as he walked me through the coffee-making process, from picking the ripe cherries to roasting the beans. Tasting the freshly brewed coffee, rich and aromatic, was an experience I will never forget.

Don Francisco’s hospitality extended beyond the farm. That evening, he invited me to his home for dinner with his family. The warmth and friendliness of the Colombian people was on full display as we shared stories over a hearty meal of bandeja paisa, a traditional dish of beans, rice, pork, plantain, and avocado. The meal was a celebration of local flavors and genuine human connection.

Filandia is surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty and exploring its landscapes was a highlight of my trip. One morning I joined a guided tour of the Barbas Bremen Nature Reserve. The reserve, with its dense forests and diverse wildlife, felt like a hidden paradise. As we walked the trails, our guide, Maria, pointed out various birds, including the striking Andean cock-of-the-rock.

One moment stands out: while resting by a waterfall, we came across a group of howler monkeys swinging through the trees. Their calls echoed through the forest, creating a symphony of nature that was both exhilarating and serene. Maria’s passion for conservation and her deep knowledge of the local ecosystem added an extra layer of appreciation to the experience.

Filandia is also known for its artisanal crafts, particularly basket weaving. I visited the workshop of Doña Rosa, a master weaver who has been practicing her craft for over five decades. It was mesmerizing to watch her deft fingers transform strands of fique (a local plant fiber) into intricate baskets. She patiently taught me the basics, and while my attempts were far from perfect, the experience was deeply satisfying.

Doña Rosa’s stories about the town’s history and traditions were as captivating as her craftsmanship. She spoke of the annual celebrations, the music and the dances that bring the community together. Her pride in her heritage was evident and it made me appreciate the richness of Filandia’s culture even more.

Colombian cuisine is diverse and flavorful, and Filandia offers a delicious culinary journey. At a local eatery, I tried sancocho, a hearty stew of meat, vegetables, and spices. The flavors were comforting and familiar, yet distinctive. The owner, Señora Carmen, told me that the secret to a good sancocho is slow cooking and fresh, local ingredients.

Another culinary highlight was a visit to a small bakery famous for its arepas. These cornmeal cookies, filled with cheese, meat or vegetables, were a perfect snack. The baker, an elderly gentleman named Juan, told me that the recipe had been passed down through generations, with everyone putting their own spin on it.

As my days in Filandia drew to a close, I spent an evening at the Mirador Colina Iluminada, a viewpoint with panoramic views of the city and surrounding landscape. It was a moment of pure tranquility to watch the sun set over the rolling hills, with the sky painted in shades of orange and pink.

But it was the people of Filandia who made my trip truly unforgettable. From Don Francisco’s warm hospitality to Doña Rosa’s masterful weaving, Maria’s passionate guidance and the culinary delights shared by Señora Carmen and Juan, every encounter enriched my experience.

Returning to Delhi, I took with me more than just memories of beautiful scenery and delicious food. Filandia had given me a deeper understanding of Colombian culture, a sense of connection with its people, and a renewed appreciation for the simple pleasures of life. This small town, with its big heart, had left an indelible mark on my soul.

Filandia is not just a destination; it is a journey to the heart of Colombia, a place where time slows down and every moment is savored. For those seeking a blend of natural beauty, rich culture and genuine human warmth, Filandia is a treasure waiting to be discovered.

The writer is a freelance travel journalist